When I make roasted beets, I might as well do a podcast. As I wash and peel the beets, I go on to whomever is nearby—my husband, Tom, my son, Wolfie, or our menagerie of pets—about the relatively undervalued attributes of these root vegetables. I can’t help myself. They are loaded with vitamins and minerals and contain an abundance of health benefits, and on top of all that, of course, is their robust taste. Their hard, dirt-encrusted outer skin evokes a blue-collar sturdiness, and I like that. They are easily peeled and prepared, and the subtleness of the herbs aside, a good roasted beet dappled with kosher salt can almost be a meal unto itself. Easy and not time-consuming, this recipe frequents our table throughout the summer and fall when beets are in season and plentiful. To keep it fun, I will substitute thyme or rosemary for the tarragon and serve with chicken, pork, beef, or chop leftovers tossed into a salad.